Essaouira -> Oum el Aioun -> Marakeš -> Asni -> Oukaimedene -> Douar Ouriki

13. Dec 2007 | zapisal | Utrinki s poti

Odpeljemo se 20km severno od Essaouire, v Oum el Aioun, prijetno vasico, ki jo sestavlja vsega ducat hiš. Na jugu vasice je nekaj evropskih avtodomov, v vasici ena sama kafana, 15 metrov nižje pa enkratna plaža. Sprehodimo se po plaži, a se nam mudi naprej.
Pot nas skozi Marrakech vodi proti Jebel Toubkalu, najvišji gori Atlasa, Maroka in severne Afrike. Rok bi se rad povzpel na 4167m visok vrh, nama z Domnom pa tudi ne bi škodilo malo zimskega veselja.
Podrobnega zemljevida nimamo, zato se s pomočjo GPSa in nekaj nasprotujočih si nasvetov domačinov odpravimo proti vasici Asni in za njo ležeči dolini Imlil, ki je, kot izvemo kasneje, najbolj popularno izhodišče za osvajanje Toubkala. Kljub temu se pred dolino usmerimo proti napačnemu cilju, maroškemu smučarskemu centru Oukaimedene. Dve uri navkreber po precej razritem makedamu je poplačanih z razgledom na slikovite vasice. Lokalci ob cesti spet žicajo najbolj osnovne dobrine in to le 50 kilometrov stran od Marrakecha, katerega luči se ponoči s tega dela Atlasa zelo dobro vidi. Kontrasti v Maroku so ogromni. Za razliko od tistih med Mideltom in Agoudalom imajo tu v vsaki vasi vsaj elektriko. Na višini 1600m nekoliko razočarano zagledamo dobro asfaltno cesto, ki po drugi dolini vodi do Oukaimedena. Eh. Vseeno je vzpon odličen, v nekaj urah poletje zamenjamo za pomlad in na koncu zimo, tik pred prihodom v 2600m visoko ležeč Ouakaimeden nas pričaka sneg. Mrači se, lokalci ravno končujejo s smučarijo, mi pa v kratkih hlačah in natikačih poskačemo ven iz avta in sprašujemo po hotelu. Sezona se uradno začne šele okoli Božiča, zato je večina hotelov zaprtih. Povprašamo v prijetni planinski koči, a nas cena (~ 40 evrov po osebi, z zajtrkom in večerjo) odvrne. Vseeno spijemo čaj, skozi okno opazujemo zasnežene gore in se grejemo ob peči na drva. Idealno okolje za vzpodbujanje domotožja. Sezona, podobno kot na Voglu, traja od sredine decembra do konca marca, le da običajno zapade tja do meter in pol snega. Preverimo lokalno specialko in ugotovimo, da bi za vzpon na Jebel Toubkal s te strani potrebovali 2 do 3 dni, ki jih žal nimamo. Maročana v koči sicer žicamo za popust, a pokaže na kamero nad točilnim pultom – francoska lastnika ga preko interneta opazujeta iz Francije in kakršno koli soliranje odpade. Povprašamo še v sosednjem hotelu, ki je še nekoliko dražji, nič ne bo, sankanje odpade.
Odpeljemo se v dolino, kjer na pol poti do Marrakecha prespimo v vasici Douar Ouriki.

Vasica 20km severno od EssaouireVasica 20km severno od EssaouireRibiški čolni na plažiCesta med Essaouiro in MarrakechomVasica v bližini Jebel ToubkalaGradbeni material v vsaki vasi je očitno lokalnega značaja :)Vzpon proti ToubkaluPogled s ceste v Oukaimedene proti MarrakechuV enem dnevu iz sončne Essaouire v zasneženi Oukaimeden…… in gretje ob pečki na drva. Domače.Zadnja moda v Maroku, karving je out!

Marakeš (Marrakech)

14. Dec 2007 | zapisal | Utrinki s poti

Jutranji prihod v Marakeš (Marrakech), meko vseh obiskovalcev Maroka, kraj kjer se lahko nakupi vse in kjer si vseskozi nadlegovan. Med iskanjem hotela v eni izmed ozkih uličic nasproti nas pripelje lokalec na motorju, zagleda Domna, kako na sprednjem levem sedežu (ker imamo angleški avto, je volan na desni strani) med vožnjo brezskrbno debatira z lokalcem čez cesto. Očitno prepričan, da ga bo Domen povozil, se pred avtom prebrne po tleh in naredi cel šov. Komaj mu pokažemo, da vozi Rok na drugi strani in da je njegov problem, če se meče po tleh, ob vsem skupaj se začne zabavati še nekaj mimoidočih in lokalec brez besed osramočeno odpelje naprej.
Obvezen ogled trga Djemaa el Fna, kjer si privoščimo tradicionalni pomarančni sok (3dh) in tajine v eni od bližnjih restavracij. Popoldne preživimo v vrvežu marakeške tržnice, osnove barantanja sedaj že poznamo, trgovci tekajo za nami, nekateri pluvajo po tleh in zganjajo celo dramo, eden od njih je do mene na koncu nesramno žaljiv. Bog pomagaj, je treba na trdo, če ne te n**** po dolgem in počez. Majico na primer z začetnih 200 dirhamov (18 evrov) zbijem na 35, pa sem prepričan, da so še vedno dobro zaslužili. Domen si kupi tradicionalno maroško dželabo (100 dirhamov) in naju z Rokom med pomerjanjem dodobra nasmeje. Ogledamo si še enega od tradicionalnih hamamov, luštno, a so cene preveč turistične. Na glavnem trgu kasneje srečamo nekoga v puloverju Telekom Slovenije in pristanemo na večerji v eni od roštiljada stojnic na Djemii s 3 skupinami Slovencev. Po dolgem času je fino spet slišati kakega Slovenca, izmenjamo nekaj izkušenj, Aleš pa nam preda nekaj nakupljenih spominkov, ki jih noče vleči na letalo. V smehu preverimo, če nam v arganovo olje ni slučajno podtaknil kakšnega hašiša.

Krotilec kač na Djemii el Fna, MarrakechPred volitvami kandidati v svoje okence prilepijo svojo sliko, program, itd.Ulice medine v MarrakechuProstor za počitek v enem izmed HammamovVečerja je na mizi…Parkeljčki za nedeljsko kosiloTržnica MarrakechaDomen kupuje dželaboVlaganje v kabelsko televizijo v Marrakechu ni smiselno

Marrakech -> Cascades d’Ouzoud -> Khenifra

15. Dec 2007 | zapisal | Utrinki s poti

Pod severnim robom Atlasa nadaljujemo proti Khenifri. Vmes se spet podamo v Atlas za ogled menda najlepših slapov v Maroku, slapovi Ouzoud. Še ena lepa vožnja po ovinkih Atlasa nas dokončno prepriča, da se najlepši razgledi Maroka ne skrivajo v puščavi ali na obali, ampak v gorah.
Dostopa do slapov ni mogoče zgrešiti, vsak lastnik zemljišča ob cesti le tega ponuja kot parkirišče (10dh), poleg tega pa nudi tudi strokovno vodenje. Sprehodimo se skozi oljčni gaj in pridemo naravnost na zgornji rob slapov. Spektakularno! Med oljkami se spustimo navzdol in si slapove ogledamo še od spodaj. Na drugi strani reke zagledamo restavracije in si zaželimo kosila, zato poizkušamo priti čez most. Ta je ves zarjavel in uradno zaprt, zviti domačini pa za 5 dirhamov (pol evra) nudijo prevoz čez vodo s splavom. Očitno se jim splača bolj, kot popravilo mosta. Žal nimajo kuskusa, tako da se odpeljemo naprej, naredimo še en krog skozi Atlas (Azilal) in do večera pristanemo v Khenifri. Pred Khenifro si v lokalni trgovini/restavraciji privoščimo odlično maroško župico in 4 omlete s sirom – za 18 dirhamov (evro in pol). Izven turističnih poti je Maroko zares poceni. Spimo spet v samskem domu (tako smo poimenovali poceni hotele, ker v njih brez izjeme vedno srečujemo samo maroške moške) za 150dh (~13 evrov) in se sprašujemo kaj toliko lokalcev počne po takšnih hotelih.

Ovčka… beeeeCascades d’OuzoudCascades d’OuzoudTrio Adijo v trikotni (t.i. narodnozabavni) kompozicijiSplavi, ki vozijo 5m čez rečicoSplavar pri slapovih OuzoudTajineKjer se Slovenec valja, …

Essaouira –> Marrakech (180km)

13. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Dopoldan izkoristimo za hiter ogled mesteca, nato pa spet na pot. Marakeš here we come!
Spet so nam prišle prav informacije od lanskoletnega potepanja, saj smo se nastanili v istem hotelu kot lani (500 m do trga Djemaa el Fna). Zvečer se kot krdelo sestradanih volkov zapodimo na najglasnejšo tržnico na svetu. Le-ta se zvečer spremeni v cirkus hrane, uličnih artistov, krotilcev kač, tečnih prodajalcev. Enastavno kraj, ki naredi vtis na vsakogar, najsi bo v dobrem ali slabem smislu. Tržnica Marakeš naredi nekaj posebnega – vrvež te zapelje naokoli, da moraš biti kar previden, če želiš skozi ozke ulice najti pot nazaj.

Marrakech -> Imlil -> Oukaimeden

14. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Ker še nismo naveličani vožnje, se naslednji dan odpravimo raziskovat okolico Marakeša. Pot nas zanese v malo vasico Imlil, ki leži pod najvišjo goro Maroka, Jebel Toubkal (4167 m.n.m.). V okolici Imlila naredimo še poslednji offroad izletek. Cesta nas je vodila skozi hribovske vasice, ceste pa so bile mestoma skoraj izklesane v strma pobočja. Grega ni in ni imel zadosti vožnje, tako da se je skupaj z Gorazdom in Davidom odpravil še na Oukaimeden (največje maroško smučišče), kjer je skupina nadebudnežev že “štamfala” mesec pred uradnim odprtjem smučišča.

sahara-jam-2008-076.jpgsahara-jam-2008-077.jpgsahara-jam-2008-078.jpgsahara-jam-2008-079.jpgsahara-jam-2008-080.jpgsahara-jam-2008-081.jpgsahara-jam-2008-082.jpgsahara-jam-2008-083.jpg

Marrakech –> Rabat (280km)

15. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Matej in Jana ob 0700 že odrineta proti Casablanci, saj je Jana naslednji dan iz Case imela let domov. Ostali se skozi vrvež Marakeša prebijemo do ceste proti Rabatu in nato monotono po ravnini brez razgledov vozimo do mraka. Nastanimo se 20 km pred Rabatom v hotelu Panorama, za katerega se izkaže da je Maroški night club hotel.

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