Arhiv za mesec November 2008

Merzouga & Erg Chebbi II

03. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Še vedno smo tu 😉 V Merzougi se zbudimo v lepo sončno jutro brez oblačka na obzorju. Poskačemo iz postelj, na hitro sedemo k zajtrku (spet marmelada in premalo kruha) ter si v mislih že rišemo poti po brezpotjih. Preverimo še zadnje detajle na motorjih in avtomobilih in se spet proti Erg Chebbi-ju. Nismo se že dobro zapodili po pesku, ko se nad nami že začnejo zgrinjati temni oblaki, veter s peskom pa nam slabi vidljivost. Ujel nas je peščeni vihar! Motoristi se zgubljamo pred očmi terencev, vihar pa kar ne pojenja, nasprotno – vedno slabše je. Obrnemo se in gremo nazaj proti vasi.
A v Maroku res nisi vsak konec tedna in čas, ki ga imamo na voljo je potrebno izkoristit – v vasi ne zavijemo nazaj v bazo, ampak spet proti bližnjim sipinam. Velika igra v pesku se prične!. Gregor preizkusi svojo Mazdo B2500, Matej Nissana Terrano, Rok Yamahco XT, David in Boris KTM LC4, Jim BMW F800 GS in Domen BMW HP2 (EPP!).
“FUCKING GREAT, PARADISE” je kričal Jim po sipinah in spet pobiral svojo težko mrcino iz peska. Po nekaj urah smo se vsi veseli in navdušeni vrnili nazaj v naš kasbah. V pričakovanju na lepše jutro brez viharja smo odšli na zaslužen počitek, zunaj pa je še naprej divjal peščeni vihar.
Naslednji dan so se motoristi sami brez spremstva (terenci) zapodili okrog Erg Chebbi-ja. Sipine, skoki, offroad proge… vse kar si človek zaželi. Že smo obkrožili Erg Chebbi, ko smo naleteli na prijazen par (nemec in avstrijka), ki nam je postregel s kavo. Po okrepčilu pa smo v bližini naleteli na raj! Velike sipine, luknje, bazeni, peščene “bande”, vrhovi sipin – kot da bi jih veter tja postavil kot park za naše motorje. F**** odlično – za tiste, ki radi sproščajo adrenalin, Erg Chebbi vabi! Nismo in nismo hoteli nazaj v kasbah, ampak fantastičen sončni zahod nas je opomnil in opozoril, da zna biti puščava v temi nevarna in nepredvidljiva. Oddirkali smo nazaj, kjer smo ob večerji in metinem čaju premlevali in debatirali o norem dnevu.
Po dobrem spancu se zjutraj skupaj z avtomobilisti ponovno odpravimo okoli Chebbi-ja. Tole se že malo ponavlja, kajne? Ampak dobrih stvari se ne da pustit za seboj… Na robu sipin se ustavimo na krajši počitek. Vsi si že pretegujemo krake, Jim pa še vedno sedi na motorju in v smehu razlaga: “Moj motor se prižge sam od sebe, samo ključ obrnem!” Po hitrem pregledu ugotovimo, da se je zaskočilo stikalo za vžig. Medtem ko Jim in David odpravljata težavo, se ostali pogajamo za cene mineralov, ki nam jih prodajajo lokalci. Po slabi uri oddirkamo naprej, zabava se prične takoj ko motoji in avtomobili pod seboj začutijo saharski pesek – čez sipine, ob sipinah, med grmovjem, po suhi rečni strugi, … Povsod nas je dosti. V zadnji četrtini poti, se zapeljemo v senco dreves in grmovja ter si skuhamo puščavsko kosilo (pasta italiana).
Na poti nazaj se ustavimo še na policijski postaji, kjer nam malo pokvarijo dan. Povejo nam namreč da je pista (offroad) do Zagore prenevarna! Kaj pa sedaj, se spogledamo. Hitro si pogledamo zemljevid, ter določimo asfaltno traso do Zagore. Po večerji kar popadamo v postelje, saj nas je pesek pošteno utrudil.

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Merzouga –> Zagora (motorji 280km, 100km HC offroad, avtomobili 330km)

04. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Ker nam ni bilo usojeno Merzougo zapustiti po brezpotjih, smo se zjutraj po skupinskem slikanju z Rachidom in Isabelle počasi odpravili proti Risaniju, po nove zaloge bencina. Bencinsko črpalko smo zapustili v smeri Tazzarina (Babel anyone?) in doline Draa. Cesta je lepa in vožnja lagodna.
V Tazzarinu se malo porazgubimo, nekateri v menjalnice, nekateri na bencinsko črpalko, drugi pa po trgovinicah po kruh in podobne zadeve. Med raziskovanjem vasice v obcestnem caffeju naletimo na motorista Jacques-a iz Belgije. Hitro ugotovimo da ima možakar nek hud motor, pa tudi njegov izgled kaže na to, da je pravi puščavski lisjak. Razloži nam, da je soudeleženec osme skupne odprave Marhaba 2008. Na začudenje vseh, se nam ponudi za vodiča po offroadu med Tazzarinom in Zagoro. Ponudbo hitro sprejememo, zmečemo odvečne stvari v avtomobile in že dirkamo za Jacquesom.
Že po nekaj metrih offroada nam je takoj postalo jasno, da se bo treba pošteno potruditi, če bomo hoteli držati Jacquesov ritem vožnje. Prvi je davek hitrosti plačal Boris. Na ostrem ovinku mu ni uspelo zaviti in je preko enega skočil v sosednji puščavski vodnjak. Glede na to, da je pol motorja viselo v vodnjak, Boris pa se je zakotalil med kamenje, so bile posledice minimalne (razbita prednja luč)! Jacques nas je vodil po nepozabnih brezpotjih, potovalna hitrost pa je bila enaka gorenjski avtocesti (tu ne mislim na viaduktu Peračica) – hiiiiiiiiiiiitraaaaaaaaaa!
Po izjemni dirki v mraku pridemo v Zagoro, kjer se Jacquesu zahvalimo s pivom. Motoristi oddirkamo v center Zagore kjer se sestanemo z avtomobilisti in skupaj odkrijemo kamp s simpatičnimi bungalovi. Z gostiteljem Abdulom in ostalimi se posedemo v berberski šotor in zaklepetamo v noč. Posebno sta se vživela David in Boris, ki sta poskušala napiti Abdula in ostale, ampak sta po nekaj uricah ugotovila, da to sploh ni mačji kašelj. Abdul in lokalci so iz žepov potegnili vse svoje domače pridelke (nekakšen maroški jegermaister, maroško vino in seveda domači maroški hasis) in tako se je zabava zavlekla dolgo v noč in jutro.

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Zagora –> Mhamid (90 km)

05. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Zjutraj se zberemo pri vozilih in hitro ugotovimo, da Davidu in Borisu primanjkuje spanca, ter da ju preganja hud maček, pravzaprav neka vrsta puščavskega tigra. To seveda ni ovira za nadaljevanje poti, zato po zajtrku in spihovanju peska z motorjev vsi skupaj odjahamo proti Mhamidu. Sonce in vročina sta nam bila stalna spremljevalca na poti. Na zadnji bencinski črpalki, 30 km pred Mhamidom, David na KTM-u opazi da je zadnja guma prazna (že spet). Med menjavo in pregledom gume ponovno srečamo Jacquesa in njegovo odpravo, poklepetamo, okrepčamo, se poslovimo in odpeljemo proti Mhamidu. Vasica Mhamid z ogromno otrok na in ob cesti. Najdemo kamp v izgradnji, kjer se dogovorimo (barantanje z lokalci je itak obvezno) za ugodno ceno sobe (sobe so nove, velike, s toplo vodo in čistim WC-jem). V tem času David, Jim, Rok in Boris pregledajo zračnico na KTM-u in jo zamenjajo (že spet). Po menjavi je guma OK. Nastanimo se v sobe in po večerji popadamo v postelje.

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Mhamid

08. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Po zajtrku s kupom starih špancev, ki so nam pojedli vsa kuhana jajca (“spanish bastards!”), smo se motorisiti in avtomobilisti skupaj odpravili raziskovat brezpotja v okolici Mhamida (Erg Chigaga). Na začetku smo naleteli na manjše sipine, ki so predvsem motoristom povzročale nemalo preglavic (izjemno mehek pesek s skritimi luknjami na sipinah), saj so v trenutku vsi ležali po pesku. V nadaljevanju so sipine prešle v trdnejšo ravnino, ki smo jo prečkali vsak po svoji liniji, ter se ponovno srečali pri sipinah Chigaga.
Počitek na soncu in čas za izvajanje norčij po pesku! Kot otroci smo se zagnali v sipine in ure so minevale kot minute. Kaj čmo, človek baje živi samo enkrat. Po počitku in igranju smo pot nadaljevali proti skalnatemu offroadu. Poskušali smo prečkati manjšo gorsko verigo, ampak smo po nekaj poizkusih obupali in zapeljali proti cestnemu prelazu. Na drugi strani smo se motoristi takoj zapodili na makedamsko pisto ob vznožju gorovja in mimogrede našli offroad prelaz, ki smo ga z druge strani iskali zaman. Avtomobilisti so medtem po cesti odpeljali na bencinsko črpalko, napolni vozila in posode za gorivo (jerry cans).
Ko so bile posode za gorivo polne, smo se vrnili preko prej najdenega prelaza proti Mhamidu. Offroad prelaz se je izkazal za precej skalnatega, vendar adrenalinski in zadosti odbit za nadaljevanje poti. Najden prelaz, prijetna pista in ozka asfaltna cesta nas pripeljeta v Mhamid in naš kamp.
Pregled vozil (Matej ugotovi problem na zavorah svojega Nissana, ki pa ga ob pomoči Gorazda odpravi), nato pa maroški kuskus, bobni po večerji in zaslužen spanec.

Mhamid –> Foum Zgouid –> Tata -> Tafraout

11. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Ker smo že prejšnji večer naredili plan, da gredo avtomobili do Foum Zguida po cesti, motoristi pa “počez”, se nato srečamo in po cesti nadaljujemo to Tate, zjutraj rečemo le hiter živijo in že šibamo vsak po svoje.
Motoristi smo se zagnali po že znani pisti do Chigage, tam pa smo optimistično zapeljali v sipine in sledili naporni pisti, polni kolesnic. Jim je v enem kovčku motorja tovoril 10l bencina za rezervo, da pa je bil enakomerno obtežen je v drugi kovček naložil še orodje. Z obteženim zadkom je med kolesnicami sipkega peska in prahu njegova vožnja izgledala kot rodeo. Metalo ga je meter levo, meter desno – kapo dol, da obvladaš tako težo, moraš biti res spreten na motorju. Ostali smo nekako pilotirali malo po pisti, malo zraven nje. Po približno 10km smo imeli vsi že poln ***** premetavanja in smo iskali le še čim krajšo pot ven.
Skoraj smo že zapustili neprijeten odsek, ko se je Jim prekucnil. Pobere motor, poskuša speljati – ne gre! “What the **** is wrong”, prične vpiti! Rok je bil ravno poleg, skupaj postavita motor na centralno stojalo in pričneta ugotavljati kaj bi bilo narobe! Pridružita se še Domen ter Boris in skupaj začnemo ugotavljati, zakaj se v neutral (po domače ler) vse skupaj normalno vrti, ko pa poizkušamo dati v prestavo pa vse skupaj crkne, kot da bi nekaj mehansko blokiralo kolo.
Kaj pa sedaj? Motor ne dela, pred nami pa še najmanj 1km sipin… Izvedemo črnogorski manever, zavlečemo se v senco bližnjega drevesa in poklapani v tišini rišemo po pesku. Čez približno 45 minut se zasliši zvok avtomobila! Poskačemo do piste in čakamo kaj se bo prikazalo. Izkaže se, da sta dva terenca lokalnih agencij, ki prevažata turiste. S težavo ju ustavimo, šoferja pač ne kažeta pretiranega zanimanja da bi nam pomagala. Na koncu se dogovorimo, da nam pokažeta najhitrejšo pot iz sipin, ter nas usmerita v najbližnjo vas. Boris in Rok poskačeta na motorje in sledita terencema.
Ko pridejo ven iz sipin jima vodič pokaže zgradbo na vrhu hribčka, češ, pojdita tja, imajo 4×4 avtomobil. Ugotovita, da je to postojanka nekakšnega čuvaja puščave, ki pa na žalost ne zna niti besede angleško! Hm, z rokami nekako razložita kaj se nam je pripetilo in kako bi lahko pomagal! Malo prikrojita razdaljo, kako daleč v puščavi smo ostali, se zdilata za 500 Dirhamov in reševalna akcija se prične!
Možakar hitro ugotovi, da je motor dlje kot je bilo rečeno, ter prične kazat kazalec za gorivo, ki mirno stoji na praznem delu skale. Končno pridemo do Jima in Domna, vsi skupaj že zagrabimo motor, da bi ga naložili na pick up-a, ko možakar pravi, da je 500 Dirhamov premalo. Za vsega skupaj 20km nas olupi za 1000 Dirhamov (100€), naložimo motor in gremo. Kdo sploh potrebuje mondena turistična naselja – dokler turistom v pesku crkujejo motorji, posel cveti! Pri njegovi postojanki se dogovorimo še za prevoz do prvega mesta. Rok in Boris gresta z motorji naprej, Domen in Jim pa skupaj čakata na prihod novega vlečnega vozila. Izkaže se, da je nov prevoz Land Rover, v katerega pa motor nekako ne paše. Jim odmontira krmilo in vetrobran in motor končno pristane v vozilu.
Ker se je vse kupaj precej zavleklo, proti Foum Zguoid-u krenejo že v temi. Domen je imel na motorju kar nekaj težav zaradi orientacije ponoči. Šofer Land Roverja po poti pridno ustavlja domačinom, tako da je na koncu avto čisto poln, nekaj ljudi pa je še na strehi. No, tudi teh 70 km ni bilo ravno poceni, saj je možakar hotel imeti 1500 Dirhamov (150 €). “Javni prevoz subvencionira EU” – v praksi. Boris in Rok, že vsa naveličana čakanja v Foum Zguidu, končno zaslišita Domnov motor in ko se zagledamo morala v trenutku zraste! Privoščimo si večerjo in se odpravimo spat – odločimo se, da bomo za motor in prevoze naprej poskrbeli jutri. Pred spancem seveda debata o nevarnih sipinah v puščavi če v bližini ni prave pomoči.
Avtomobili so pred mrakom prispeli v Tato, kjer so našli prijeten hotel s prijaznimi gostitelji. Gregor je podlegel bolezni in zaspal, ostali pa so predebatirali in prepili noč z lokalci. Izkaže se, da je bila pot avtomobilistov še bolj hardcore offroad kot naša (beri: cesta na zemljevidu je, v resnici pa še v gradnji).
Motoristi so se zjutraj zbudili v upanju na ugodno rešitev pokvarjenega Jimovega BMW-ja. Začetek je izgledal slab in tako se je tudi končalo. Jim je na koncu lokalcu plačal 300 € za prevoz motorja do Casablance, kjer naj bi bil uradni BMW servis. Skupina se je razšla. Jim proti Casablanci, Rok, Boris, Domen pa proti 350 km oddaljenem Tafraoutu. Na poti jih je presenetil mraz tako da so oblečeni kot severni medvedje v mraku prišli v prijetno gorsko mestece.
Cela odprava, razen Jima, se je dobila v neverjetno urejenem hotelu Saint Antoine (čiste velike sobe, bazen, kaj bi govoril – odlično) za 10 € na osebo. Markantna točka, ki smo si jo zapomnili že lani. Takoj predebatiramo vse dogodke, povečerjamo in popadamo po udobnih posteljah. Fotografsko vsi dogodki niso popolnoma zabeleženi, ker so bile druge stvari bolj pomembne, za povrh vsega pa je Jim večino slik odpeljal sabo v Casablanco. Update kdaj drugič 😉

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Tafraout –> Agadir –> Essaouira (350km)

12. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Udobje Tafrouta smo izkoristili vsak po svoje. Hotel z bazenom, internetom, barom in klimo v sobah je Domnu in Roku pomagal pri nabiranju nove energije, no ja, tudi ostali niso ravno pretitravali z aktivnostmi.
Grega, Gorazd, Matej in Jana so drugi dan odpeljali 100 km dolg krog skozi kanjon gorskih oaz – Ait Mansour, Boris in David pa sta z motorji naključno raziskovala brezpotja v okolici Tafrouta, ter se ravno tako kot ostali vrnila v hotel s širokim nasmehom na obrazu.
Ker pa v Maroko nismi prišli le poležavat, smo po dveh dneh užitkov odrinili naprej proti Agadirju. Pot, razen lepo zavite ceste (in lepih razgledov na hribe), ni bila zahtevna, zato smo hitro prispeli v Agadir (maroški Portorož), kjer smo si privoščili le kavico in oddirkali dalje. Malo pred mrakom smo prispeli v mesto Jimi Hendrixa, Essaouiro.
Matej, Jana, Grega in Gorazd so si našli prenočišče zunaj medine, Domen, Boris, David in Rok pa so prenočili v prijetnem hotelčku sredi dogajanja v medini.

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Essaouira –> Marrakech (180km)

13. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Dopoldan izkoristimo za hiter ogled mesteca, nato pa spet na pot. Marakeš here we come!
Spet so nam prišle prav informacije od lanskoletnega potepanja, saj smo se nastanili v istem hotelu kot lani (500 m do trga Djemaa el Fna). Zvečer se kot krdelo sestradanih volkov zapodimo na najglasnejšo tržnico na svetu. Le-ta se zvečer spremeni v cirkus hrane, uličnih artistov, krotilcev kač, tečnih prodajalcev. Enastavno kraj, ki naredi vtis na vsakogar, najsi bo v dobrem ali slabem smislu. Tržnica Marakeš naredi nekaj posebnega – vrvež te zapelje naokoli, da moraš biti kar previden, če želiš skozi ozke ulice najti pot nazaj.

Marrakech -> Imlil -> Oukaimeden

14. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Ker še nismo naveličani vožnje, se naslednji dan odpravimo raziskovat okolico Marakeša. Pot nas zanese v malo vasico Imlil, ki leži pod najvišjo goro Maroka, Jebel Toubkal (4167 m.n.m.). V okolici Imlila naredimo še poslednji offroad izletek. Cesta nas je vodila skozi hribovske vasice, ceste pa so bile mestoma skoraj izklesane v strma pobočja. Grega ni in ni imel zadosti vožnje, tako da se je skupaj z Gorazdom in Davidom odpravil še na Oukaimeden (največje maroško smučišče), kjer je skupina nadebudnežev že “štamfala” mesec pred uradnim odprtjem smučišča.

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Marrakech –> Rabat (280km)

15. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Matej in Jana ob 0700 že odrineta proti Casablanci, saj je Jana naslednji dan iz Case imela let domov. Ostali se skozi vrvež Marakeša prebijemo do ceste proti Rabatu in nato monotono po ravnini brez razgledov vozimo do mraka. Nastanimo se 20 km pred Rabatom v hotelu Panorama, za katerega se izkaže da je Maroški night club hotel.

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Rabat –> Asilah (250km)

16. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

“Brez veze, spet ena sama ravnina – no ja vsaj zeleno je okoli nas”, si misli vsak po svoje! Motoristi oddivjajo naprej in se zabavajo s prehitevanjem polno naloženih lokalnih tovornjakov, vlačilcev, dirkačev,… Nič hudega sluteč izpeljemo ovinek, opala, presenečenje! Nasproti pelje tovornjak, kar naenkrat pa izza njega, bočno po celem cestišču, pridrsi črn Fiat Uno, ki se na srečo ustavi tik pred robom ceste, tako da vsi skupaj za las odpeljemo mimo. Domen, Boris in Rok se v šoku ustavijo, in gredo pogledat, kaj je s šoferjem črnega Una. Izkaže se, da je z gospodično v avtu vse v redu, samo tresla se je kot šiba na vodi!
Malo pred mrakom se nastanimo v campu kjer smo ob prihodu v Maroko parkirali prikolico. Sledi presenečenje: Jim, ki je svojega pokvarjenega BMW 800GS uspel spraviti do Španije, je samo za to, da nas pozdravi in da skupaj zažuramo zadnji večer, še enkrat prečkal Gibraltarska vrata! Njegovega BMWja mu medtem niso uspeli usposobiti niti v Algecirasu, si je pa po nekaj telefonskih klicih na račun BMWja uredil letalsko karto proti domu in kontejnerski prevoz za svojega konjička.


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