Dakhla, Zahodna Sahara -> Nouadhibou, Mavretanija

09. Nov 2007 | zapisal | Utrinki s poti

Jutranji zajtrk z internetom. Končno ugotovimo, zakaj naš laptop v nekaterih Cyber-jih ne dela – mrežno kartico je potrebno nastaviti na 10Mb half-duplex. Me zanima iz kje uvažajo mrežno opremo. Half-duplex očitno deluje tudi internet, nekaj časa samo gor, nekaj časa samo dol.
Odhod proti meji, 350km. Nedaleč od Dakhle prečkamo severni (rakov) povratnik. Tik pred maroško mejno kontrolo sledi ribji file za 35 dirhamov, termometer v avtu kaže 37C.
Formalnosti na maroški strani za nas minejo brez posebnosti, slabše pa jo odnese skupina korejskih študentov z dvema najetima avtomobiloma. Maročan v pisarni pravi, da ne more preveriti njihovih podatkov in jih pošlje nazaj na letališče v Casablanco. 1500 km ovinek – v eno smer. Noro. Korejci so čisto obupani, eden izmed njih poizkuša “Morocco, very good country”. Policist, ki stoji poleg se začne glasno smejati – prilizovanje ne deluje.
Na meji se nam za pomoč skozi mejne formalnosti ponudi Mavretanec, ki malo govori angleško in rusko – poimenujemo ga Rus. Izgleda okej, ampak ko predebatiramo situacijo, se že pridruži 3 francoskim avtomobilom. Vmes nas popade menjalec denarja. Pravi, da za mavretanske vize, uvoz avta in zavarovanje nujno potrebujemo lokalno valuto. Malo dvomimo, pa še tip je nadležno antipatičen, ampak temu pritrdi tudi maroški policist, še bolj pa nas prepriča to, da menjajo tudi Francozi. Ok, naj bo, 100 evrov. Menjalni tečaj? 300 ougij za 1 evro in 200 za 10 dirhamov. Dirhamov ne bomo menjali (1 evro = ~11 dirhamov), barantamo za 350 po evru in pristanemo na 330. Šele kasneje ugotovimo, da menjalni tečaj niti ni bil pretirano slab, na banki menjajo po 360. Mavretanec našteje ougije, vzame evre in hoče it. “Nej kr počaka”, Rok šteje denar. 25000 namesto 33000. Mavretanec se kretensko reži, kao, ups napaka. Doda še nekaj bankovcev in spet hoče oditi, a-a, rok šteje – 30000. Mavretanec se spet reži, menda slabo šteje. Doda še 3000 ougij in menjava je zaključena. Alkohol je v Mavretaniji ilegalen, svinjine se ne dotaknejo, krade se pa lahko… Jebeš takega muslimana. Vse skupaj na maroški kontroli porabimo slabo uro.
Med maroško in mavretansko kontrolo 5km “no mans land”, asfalta ni, pista je v precej slabem stanju. Nato pa obok sredi ničesar z majhno hišico – Republique Islamique de Mauritanie (RIM). Prva mavretanska kontrola, oficir se rokuje z vsakim posebej in pri tem pokaže, da doma meče kvihte (vsakega močno stisne in potegne k sebi). Pregleda celoten avto in si zaželi laptopa. Nima šans. Bo pa Elan nahrbtnik. Ne! Na koncu dobi Mercator nahrbtnik, noter pa nekaj igrač – oboje sicer namenjeno otrokom, ki jih srečamo na poti. Po izplenu se mu izraz na obrazu s trdega vojaškega razleze v širok nasmeh “Very good, very good!”. 50m naprej policijska kontrola. Lesena barakica, ki pri nas ne bi preživela prve zime, znotraj tesnjena s polivinilom. 10 evrov ali 100 dirhamov za 3 dnevno prehodno vizo (plačamo z dirhami), ki se lahko v Nouakchottu podaljša na 1 mesec. Plačilo z ougijami ni mogoče. Sledi še 100 dirhamov za začasni uvoz avta (spet ne sprejemajo ougij) in 4000 (~ 12 evrov) ougij za 10 dnevno zavarovanje avtomobila. Tudi zavarovanje je možno plačati z evri, torej za prehod mavretanske meje ougije ne le da niso potrebne, ampak so celo odveč. Menjalnica na meji menja 300 ougij za evro (čez 3 tedne, na poti nazaj pa – zanimivo – po 350).
Pri nekaterih formalnostih nam, potem ko konča s francozi, pomaga Rus – obrazci so namreč v francoščini, ta pa nam še ne gre najbolje. Mavretanski del meje zaključimo v dobri uri. Po koncu nas prepriča, da je zaradi pogostih kontrol in pozne ure najbolje, da prenočimo v Nouadhibouu. Ponudi se za pomoč pri prečenju cestnih kontrol, ve pa tudi kje se nahaja Kamp Aba, kjer noči tudi eden izmed francoskih avtomobilov (ostala dva sta odšla na pisto proti Atarju). Okej naj bo. Sledijo 3 stroge cestne kontrole, ki kasneje v trojčku, a manj strogo, križajo našo pot po celotni Mavretaniji. Na prvi Rus že od daleč veselo kliče žandarje, a ga ob prihodu eden izmed njih s srepim pogledom hitro utiša. Očitno se ne poznajo tako dobro, kot trdi Rus. Sledi pregled celotne prtljage, zmoti jih dobrih 3 litre šnopsa (borovničk, jegra in brinovca ne najdejo). Rok takoj pokaže na namišljeno ureznino na roki, “medicine!” Ok, za lastno uporabo, ni problema, kot izvemo kasneje pa so Francozom pred nami na tla izlili cel plato piva. Sledita policijska kontrola (potni listi) in carinska (papirji za avto).
Nouadhibou, ki podobno kot Dakhla leži na peščenem polotoku, je obmejna luknja z gostim in kaotičnem prometom. Cesta ima na obeh straneh 2 metra prašne bankine, namenjene prehitevanju, pešcem, trgovanju, posedanju… Afrika. V kampu Aba kampiranje za tri 4500 ougij (~ 13 evrov), razmeroma dobra soba z lastno kopalnico pa 6100. Vzamemo slednje. Rusu damo 3000 ougij, vendar ni zadovoljen. Da brez njega ne bi prišli tako lahko čez kontrole, pa da ne bi našli kempa – 6000 ougij bo ravno prav za popravilo njegovega pokvarjenega avtomobila. Pozabi seveda omenit, da je dobil zastonj prevoz z delovnega mesta v rodno vas in da je čedno vsoto vzporedno z nami že skasiral s strani Francozev. V mraku s prstom kaže na gume, kar razumemo kot prikrito grožnjo, zato pristanemo na 4500 ougij.
Večerna debata s Francozoma v Landcruiserju 60 (letnik 87), Yves in Gvenola. Oba že dobro v 60. letih, ravno tako kot mi prečita Mavretanijo proti Maliju in nadaljujeta v Niger. Če že gremo v isto smer, gremo pa skupaj!

Pozor Mine! Lula se na jugu Zahodne Sahare samo s ceste!Prototip evropske avtomobilske industrijePogled na Mavretansko mejo z “no man’s land”Mavretanska policijska kontrola

Marrakech –> Rabat (280km)

15. Nov 2008 | zapisal | Sahara Jam 2008

Matej in Jana ob 0700 že odrineta proti Casablanci, saj je Jana naslednji dan iz Case imela let domov. Ostali se skozi vrvež Marakeša prebijemo do ceste proti Rabatu in nato monotono po ravnini brez razgledov vozimo do mraka. Nastanimo se 20 km pred Rabatom v hotelu Panorama, za katerega se izkaže da je Maroški night club hotel.

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