Sahara Jam

Zajtrk v Asilahu, ki je prijetno bivše Portugalsko pristanišče. Otvorimo sezono tradicionalnega maroškega metinega čaja in šibamo proti Chefchauenu kjer naredimo kosilo. V mestu srečamo skupino totalno zadetih Špancev (Chefchaouen je prestolnica gorovja Rif, kjer se pridela 42% svetovnega hašiša), spet srečam istega berberskega prodajalca in pri avtomobilu nam isti težak kot pred dvemi leti hoče prodat hašiš. Ko se spuščamo iz Rifa proti Rabatu zagledamo isti Stop znak, ki sem ga slikal pred dvemi leti, zvečer pa v kaosu Rabata (ki je presenetljivo urejena prestolnica) blizu Medine najdemo stari hotel z roza posteljami. Vsekakor dan Deja-vujev.

Še zadnji zajtrk na promenadi, potem pa gas proti 500km oddaljenemu Laayoune. Vmes nam Moro priporoča postanek pri vrelcih Iraifia, ki ležijo na 50km s ceste v notranjost. Pista je vse od odcepa pri bencinski črpalki dobro markirana z belimi kamni na obeh straneh in kot kaže, bomo v Iraifii v dobri uri. Na robu rahlo peščenega dela v daljavi sredi peščene ravnine zagledamo zelenje – oaza, to bo to! Nekaj trenutkov kasneje se na armaturni plošči prižge polovica lučk. “Menjalnik se pregreva. Pa hladilna tekočina. Pa mašina. Uh?” – “To ne more bit, lej lučka za ročno tud gori, zih je štrom šu!” Odpremo pokrov motorja, voda vre, minuta tišine. Oba jermena hladilnika sta šla v maloro, na servisu pred odhodom niso opazili, da nista več v najboljšem stanju. Brez jermena temperatura hladilne tekočine doseže najvišji nivo v dveh minutah. Gumo že imamo rezervno, pa filtre, pa WD40, pa olje in destilirano vodo… Ampak jermen? To je nekaj, kar se menja vsake nekaj let na servisu?
50km, ki smo jih prevozili v dobri uri s prižgano klimo in iPodom se kar naenkrat zdi hudičevo veliko. V glavi se slika scenarij pešačenja čez puščavo – 50km po žgočem soncu, vroča voda iz jerrycana in vsake nekaj kilometrov fatamorgana – privid oaze s Toyotinimi hostesami. Saj res, oaza, le 5km pred nami. Ne more biti tako hudo, najprej kruh in tuna, potem pa dalje. Najlonskih nogavic žal nimamo (čeprav sumim, da Rok skriva par), zato namesto jermena uporabimo plastične vezice. “Dela!” Ja, pol poti do oaze, potem pa se vezice pretrgajo. Vseeno pripeljemo do oaze, ravno ko temperatura spet naraste do vrha.
V oazi je nekaj betonskih bazenov s toplo vodo, ki smrdi po žveplu, okoli njih pa nekaj lokalcev in dva parkirana Land Rover Defenderja, Santani. Eden izmed lastnikov je ravno namestil rezervno gumo (na zračnici prebodle že ima kake 15 flik), kratka debata in ponudi se nam za vleko do bencinske pumpe ob cesti. Na srečo je študiral v Rabatu in zelo dobro govori angleško. Naveže vrv, 12 letnega sina vzamemo v naš avto, sam pa se prisedem v Land Roverja. Avto je stereotipen Land Rover, ki ga vozijo lokalci – v kristusovih letih, razpadla armaturka pa diskretno pokrita s tepihom, ki ga na krajeh krasijo cofki. Naše 3 tone za ubogega Land Roverja predstavljajo veliko breme, stalno reduktor in 1-2 prestava. Kljub temu se vkopljemo že v prvem pesku, na srečo naš avto v kratkih intervalih še vedno deluje, zato mu lahko pomagamo. Land Rover vseskozi pridno kuha in kmalu sledi prvo dolivanje vode iz jerrycana. Vmes sine začne žicat mobilni telelefon, ki ga je videl v avtu. Presede se v Land Roverja in očetu stalno teži naj mi prevaja, kaj bi rad imel. Mobilni telefon, pa iPod. Skromno. No mogoče še moj fotoaparat. Oče ga v smehu miri, a fant izgleda kar vztrajen. Pri drugem postanku za dolivanje vode, se ne da motiti, mirno odpre zadnja vrata našega avtomobila in zvedavo opazuje po notranjosti. Ko Rok zavrne njegove želje po telefonu, se mulec vrže v tla, vsede v Land Roverja in hoče odpeljat. Oče ga komaj umiri. Vse skupaj spominja na močno razvajenega slovenskega mulca. Sledijo še trije postanki za dolivanje vode in dva postanka za menjavo vlečne vrvi, ki se trga (končno uporabimo našo 10-tonsko vlečno vrv), med katerimi bi mulca najraje pošteno na koleno, a je oče faca, tako ali tako pa nimamo pretirane izbire. Mali namreč pridno vohlja po našem avtu, ki ga moramo zato kar zaklepati, pleza po avtu na prtljažnik in nam nasploh žre živce. Vseeno nam po štirih urah že ponoči uspe priti nazaj do bencinske pumpe. Zadnji del poti nas ujame Hasan z drugim Land Roverjem, ki od nekod pripelje nov jermen. Za vleko se uskladimo pri 600 dirhamih (55 evrov), jermen pa zamenja lastnika za 200 dirhamov. Je pač nuja. Rok mulcu podari še par hlač in ga pri tem prijateljsko lopne po rami, tako da se mali skoraj sesede v tla – od takrat naprej ne tečnari več.
Saharca nas povabita v restavracijo in častita večerjo (ki jo na koncu sicer dobita nazaj, ker jima pošenkamo novo zračnico), ob debati izvemo da ima naš šlepar v puščavi 40 kamel, ki jih vsak dan pridno molze. 5 litrov zjutraj in 5 litrov zvečer – od vsake kamele. Drugi v oazi dela kot geolog in pravi, da dobro pozna Morota – naj bi mu podaril listnato vzmetenje za Land Roverja. Bivakiramo za stavbo na drugi strani ceste. Na cesti smo, jermen imamo, naslednji dan rabimo samo še vleko do 140km oddaljenega Boujdourja, kjer je najbližji avtomehanik.

Matej in Jana ob 0700 že odrineta proti Casablanci, saj je Jana naslednji dan iz Case imela let domov. Ostali se skozi vrvež Marakeša prebijemo do ceste proti Rabatu in nato monotono po ravnini brez razgledov vozimo do mraka. Nastanimo se 20 km pred Rabatom v hotelu Panorama, za katerega se izkaže da je Maroški night club hotel.

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“Brez veze, spet ena sama ravnina – no ja vsaj zeleno je okoli nas”, si misli vsak po svoje! Motoristi oddivjajo naprej in se zabavajo s prehitevanjem polno naloženih lokalnih tovornjakov, vlačilcev, dirkačev,… Nič hudega sluteč izpeljemo ovinek, opala, presenečenje! Nasproti pelje tovornjak, kar naenkrat pa izza njega, bočno po celem cestišču, pridrsi črn Fiat Uno, ki se na srečo ustavi tik pred robom ceste, tako da vsi skupaj za las odpeljemo mimo. Domen, Boris in Rok se v šoku ustavijo, in gredo pogledat, kaj je s šoferjem črnega Una. Izkaže se, da je z gospodično v avtu vse v redu, samo tresla se je kot šiba na vodi!
Malo pred mrakom se nastanimo v campu kjer smo ob prihodu v Maroko parkirali prikolico. Sledi presenečenje: Jim, ki je svojega pokvarjenega BMW 800GS uspel spraviti do Španije, je samo za to, da nas pozdravi in da skupaj zažuramo zadnji večer, še enkrat prečkal Gibraltarska vrata! Njegovega BMWja mu medtem niso uspeli usposobiti niti v Algecirasu, si je pa po nekaj telefonskih klicih na račun BMWja uredil letalsko karto proti domu in kontejnerski prevoz za svojega konjička.